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La Dolce Vita

This summer, I had the experience of a lifetime.

I was fortunate enough to spend five weeks in the mountainous village of Longano, which is located in the South of Italy, about an hour and a half by train from Rome and Naples.

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It is always so heartwarming to return to my birthplace, which is still so embedded in tradition, despite changes which have been brought about by the 21st Century. The village still has a quaint, homely feel and is full of character, opposing the minimalistic and modern style of the current century.

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Walking into the village feels like stepping back in time due to the fact the village is so isolated from city life. It is lovely to see children playing in the streets, and being able to walk around safely, without worrying about excessive traffic and crime. Everyone in the village knows everyone – you can’t walk for two minutes without being recognized by a distant relative or family friend!

In the Molise region (where the village is located), associating a specific costume with each village is a widespread colourful and cultural tradition. In Longano, these costumes are completely handmade by the women in the family – constructed from sheets of luxurious black velvet and strips of intricate gold thread embroidery.

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On the 7th August every year, a religious procession takes place, in order to celebrate the Feast Day of Saint Donato, in which the people of the village – men included – get dressed up in their respective costumes and walk from the village square to the castle at the top of the hill, followed by the melodious tunes of the Castelpizzuto marching band.

I had heard about this tradition since I was young – in fact, I was lucky enough to have my own costume, expertly made for me by my extremely talented auntie, Maria. Therefore, it is no surprise that when I was asked by that same auntie if I wanted to participate in the event myself this summer, I felt an immense surge of excitement and pride.

Little did I know how much this event would teach me and improve my view of myself and the world, in many ways.

About a week before the main event, I was invited to my auntie’s house to try on two of the costumes she had initially made for herself to wear; I was very grateful that she was letting me borrow one!

The first costume I tried on had a beautiful powder blue apron to accompany it. The second costume was more personalized for my auntie – it had two M’s embroidered on the apron (representing her name, Maria Macari). I simply could not decide which one to wear! I decided to take a picture of myself in each of the outfits, and used the power of social media to ask my friends for their opinion on which one I should wear. The winner was…

Option number one!

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With my outfit selected, the big day was inching closer and closer. The next week was filled with nervous excitement, as I awaited this special occasion.

The 7th arrived very quickly. In the early afternoon, I began to get ready. At home, I put my hair in Dutch braids, a common hairstyle that compliments the headscarf practically.

I then walked to my auntie’s house, where both my grandma and my auntie helped to get me ready.

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Being able to spend time with my family in such a special and unique moment was particularly special for me – what seems like a small, insignificant memory carried so much meaning for me.

After the preparation was complete, my Mum and I headed to the village square, where many people in their own traditional costumes waited, in a bubble of chatter and laughter, for the procession to begin.

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Participants were assembled in pairs in a long line, with the marching band and the statue of Saint Donato at the back of the parade.

Soon, we began to ascend, our footsteps accompanied by the melodious tunes of the marching band, towards the Church at the top of the hill, where the service was to be held.

Although I could not fully understand the words of the service, it was a meaningful, spiritual experience for me; even though the congregation was overwhelmed by the heat of the 40°C weather!

After the service, we continued our procession to the ruins of the old castle, that sits right at the top of a hill. Although this was very tiring, the view at the top was well worth it – we had breath-taking views of the quaint village below, nestled in the middle of the mountains. As we descended the hill, I realised in this moment just how lucky I was to have this experience – I decided to take a mental photograph, that I would never forget.

When we reached the bottom, a big feast in the town hall awaited us. Cakes, pizza and sandwiches had been made, to refuel the tired participants. In addition, mementos for the event were handed out – little handmade woollen dolls, crocheted squares and bracelets that were woven from pieces of ribbon.

I filled my plate with a mixture of sweet and savoury treats, and happily ate them, surrounded by a buzz of conversation from family and friends.

When I could eat no more, my Mum and I walked back to my auntie’s house, so that I could get changed for the party that was going to be taking place in the village square.

At this point, I took some pictures with my family members, including my beautiful twin cousins, Aurora and Rachele.

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The party in the square was nothing short of amazing. A traditional folk band from Puglia enchanted the audience with unique and cultural music, native to the South of Italy. Different stalls had been set up, which sold traditional food and sweet treats such as crêpes. I danced with my cousins and my aunties (my cousins had driven from Rome, to stay for a few days!). This experience was incredibly heart-warming – spending time with my family brings me so much joy!

I am so fortunate to have been able to have this unique and once in a lifetime experience this summer. I have learned so much about the importance of embracing culture and identity, and showing pride in your heritage and background. I have learned to treasure moments with family. I have also learned that you can definitely eat too much pizza and pasta!

Thank you so much for reading about my experience of a lifetime.

by Sofia Macari

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